Fitting a laminate worktop takes one day for a straight run and two for an L-shape with a mitred corner. Lay the tops on level units with a 10mm front overhang, join them, cut the sink and hob holes, then screw them up through the unit rails. The hard part is the corner joint, and you have two choices: a mason’s mitre cut with a jig and router, or a straight cut covered by an aluminium joining strip. This guide walks through both, with diagrams for each step.
Key takeaways- Level the units first. A worktop can’t fix uneven cabinets.
- Aim for a 10mm overhang at the front of 600mm units.
- Use a joining strip if you don’t own a worktop jig and router.
- Fit the sink to the worktop before you screw the worktop down.
Before you start: tools and timing
| Job | Typical time | Tools |
|---|---|---|
| Straight run, one length | 2 to 3 hours | Circular saw, guide rail, drill, spirit level |
| L-shape with joining strip | 4 to 6 hours | As above, plus a hacksaw for the strip |
| L-shape with mason’s mitre | 1 day | Worktop jig, 1/2in router, 12.7mm cutter, worktop bolts |
| Sink and hob cut-outs | 1 to 2 hours | Jigsaw, 10mm drill bit, heat tape |
| Upstands or splashback | 1 to 2 hours | Mitre saw, adhesive, silicone |
Unwrap the worktops in the kitchen and let them settle for a day before cutting. Store them flat on a level surface, never on edge.
Step 1. Level the base units
The worktop sits exactly as level as the units below it. Check every unit front to back and side to side, and adjust the legs before you go further.
Standard UK base units are 720mm high on 150mm legs. With a 38 to 40mm top that gives a finished height of about 910mm. Our worktop sizes and heights guide covers the numbers in more detail.
Step 2. Dry fit and check the overhang
Lay each length on the units uncut and check how it meets the wall. Wickes’ guide works with standard 600mm deep units and a 10mm overhang at the front, which clears the doors and drips rain-free off the edge.
If the wall bows, scribe the back edge: hold a pencil against a small block, run it along the wall to transfer the shape, then plane or sand back to the line. Leave a few millimetres at the wall for movement and let the upstand cover it.
Step 3. Choose your corner joint
A corner needs either a mason’s mitre or a joining strip. Both are strong; the mitre looks cleaner on a postformed edge, and the strip is faster.
| Mason’s mitre | Joining strip | |
|---|---|---|
| Tools | Worktop jig, 1/2in router, 12.7mm cutter | Circular saw and hacksaw |
| Skill level | Experienced DIYer or fitter | Beginner |
| Look | Near-invisible line | Visible metal or colour-matched strip |
| Best for | Postformed tops, light decors | Square edge tops, dark decors, utility rooms |
| Cost of kit | Jig £60 to £100 plus router | Strip about £10 |
J“If you’re only doing one kitchen, buy the strip. A jig and router cost more than the worktop, and a strip on a dark decor all but disappears.”James, founder, Laminate Worktops
Step 4. Cut the worktops to length
Cut each length face down with a circular saw on a clamped rail. Our guide to cutting a laminate worktop covers blade choice and chipping in detail.
For a mitre, B&Q says a worktop cutting jig is essential to profile the joint and cut the bolt pockets. Follow the instructions supplied with the jig, as the setting for each cut differs.
Step 5. Cut the sink and hob holes
Make cut-outs while the worktop is still loose so you can support it on both sides. Keep hob cut-outs at least 50mm from the front and 60mm from the back, and keep every cut-out 100mm from a joint.
Howdens recommends fitting the sink to the worktop before the worktop is secured. It is far easier to tighten the clips upside down on trestles than lying in a base unit.
Step 6. Join and fix the worktops
- Apply sealant or worktop jointing compound along the joint faces.
- Fit the bolts loosely, check the top surfaces are flush, then tighten in turn.
- Wipe off squeeze-out straight away with a damp cloth.
- Drill up through the unit front rails and screw the worktop down, with a screw no longer than the worktop is thick.
- At the back, fix through brackets or the rear rail.
Worktop Express suggests a 5mm x 35mm wood screw through each fixing position and a suitable sealer for a watertight joint.
Step 7. Finish the ends and the wall
Cover any exposed cut ends with a matching edging strip or an aluminium end cap. Then fit the upstand or splashback to seal the gap at the wall.
- Edging strip: contact adhesive on both faces, press firmly, trim, then file down towards the worktop.
- End cap: screw or glue in place over a straight cut, ideal on postformed ends.
- Upstand: run a bead of silicone along the back of the worktop, then press the upstand into it.
- Splashback: fit behind the hob or sink first, then upstands either side.
Step 8. Seal, clean and hand over
Run a thin bead of clear or colour-matched silicone where the worktop meets upstands and appliances. Leave it 24 hours before the sink is used.
Peel off any protective film and wipe the surface with warm soapy water. Duropal’s care guide warns never to cut directly on the worktop, so give the client a chopping board along with the keys.
J“We confirm every delivery the day before, so you can book your fitter for the right morning. Nothing kills a fitting day like waiting for the worktop.”James, founder, Laminate Worktops
Final thoughts
A neat laminate worktop comes down to level units, the right joint for your skill level, and sealing every cut. If you’re unsure about a mitre, use a joining strip and spend the time on the details people see.
Everything for the job, on one pageChoose your worktop, then add upstands, splashbacks, edging, joining strips, end caps and a fitting kit before checkout.See an example worktop
